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Thirty-five visitors from all over the world, including Canada, New Zealand, Australia, Sweden, New York, the UK, France and Spain, are tucking into kudu potjie, rump steak, grilled fish, fresh veggies, and pap and potatoes followed by malva pudding, in a boma under the stars just outside White River in Mpumalanga.
Stephelina, the Swazi/Sotho chef who has “been working in food for 30 years”, tells me she knows what people like as she deftly slices another steak for a hungry guest. These guests are part of a National Geographic tour group and can’t stop telling me how wonderful South Africa is – how friendly, how beautiful, how diverse and how affordable. Remember, they’re spending dollars, euros and pounds.
Muluwa Lodge
Rates from R1 600
Info: muluwa.co.za
I’m staying at the five-star Muluwa Lodge, where six thatch-and-stone chalets, 12 safari tents and two super luxury suites, wide decks and a rim pool are tucked into expansive gardens surrounded by bushveld with views of the mountains on the hazy horizon.
The next morning, three giraffes are nibbling bushes outside my room while a family of nyala – dad, mum and baby – crop the grass. Muluwa is understated, tasteful luxury, with indoor and outdoor showers that look like they’ve come straight from the Arabian Nights; handmade tiles from the world-famous Bosch Ceramic Art Studio; and committed, welcoming members of staff.
It’s a perfect base for exploring one of South Africa’s most beautiful provinces. One popular option is to take a guided day trip in an open vehicle into Kruger National Park.
That evening, the group shares stories of about the lion, elephant, buffalo and rhino they saw – but, sadly, they say, no leopard. “Hey,” I point out to them, “you were only in the park for eight hours.”
Misty Mountain Lodge
Rates from R800
Info: mistymountain.co.za
A highlight for all visitors is the Graskop Gorge Lift, which is glass and plunges 51m into the forest below, where you can wander along 600m of wooden walkways; cross suspension bridges over rushing streams; stroll alongside ancient trees, lush ferns and an abundance of wild flowers; listen to birdsong; or rest on one of the many thoughtfully placed benches and commune with the indigenous forest. Great signage introduces you to your environment and gently reminds you that you go into the forest to feed your mind and find your soul.
I discover that we have more than 800 different species of butterflies – look out for the Butterfly Bar – and that, if we were to only wipe out insects on this planet, the rest of life and humanity would disappear from land in a few months. The Graskop Gorge Lift is a world-class destination with curio and clothing shops, an art gallery, a community craft centre, a bar, and a restaurant, where you can enjoy fresh local produce as you gaze out over the stunning views.
That night, I stayed at the aptly named Misty Mountain Lodge on Long Tom Pass, where more visitors – international and local – ooh and aah over the beauty of their surroundings, the affordability of the comfortable sandstone cottages (all with fridges, microwaves, tea and coffee-making facilities, and most with views that go on forever).
Some have been on a guided quad-biking escapade, some have been trout fishing, mountain biking or birding. Others have taken an easy 3.7km walking trail, while the fitness freaks have taken on the 27km forest hike. Many have just lounged around the pool all day as the kids played in the grassy playground. Two double-storey family houses sleep 10. A family from Johannesburg tells me that they’ll definitely be back. The restaurant serves good, home-cooked food, including fresh trout – the area’s speciality.
The Oyster Box
Rates from R1 100
Info: oysterboxhotel.com
A week later, I’m on the road to one of the great “grande dame” hotels of the world in KwaZulu-Natal – The Oyster Box at Umhlanga Rocks. It’s celebrating 10 years since it re-opened its refurbished doors and interiors. You’ll need deep pockets, but your stay here will be memorable.
Cool white marble public rooms are graced with colourful ceramic tiles and pictures, and lazily revolving bamboo ceiling fans. Rooms and suites overlook the Indian Ocean, the long sandy beach, the red and white lighthouse and the passing ships far out to sea. Works by contemporary African artists including Sibusiso Zulu and Zwakele Gumbi line the corridors, and orchids tumble in profusion in the shady courtyards, where fountains tinkle.
The food is fabulous, including the scrumptious afternoon tea and the legendary curry buffet, where you can dine on six different curries with sambals, samoosas, naan bread, pappadums, chili bites, dhal, delicious rice and chutneys galore, followed by a variety of Indian desserts.
Breakfast includes fresh oysters, smoked salmon and bubbly. The service is outstanding and some of the staff proudly tell me that they have worked at the hotel for decades. If you’re going to splurge, The Oyster Box is the place to do it.
Anew Hotel Hluhluwe & Safaris
Rates from R1 780
Info: anewhotels.com
Then I’m off to another “old lady” in KwaZulu-Natal. This one, however, as Sadira, the passionately dedicated young general manager tells me, “is an old lady with botox”. I’m in Hluhluwe at what was once – in 1970 – the first Holiday Inn in South Africa. Today it’s revamped, refurbished and revitalised as Anew Hotel Hluhluwe & Safaris, an inviting, charming establishment with 81 spacious, simple rooms; four conference venues; gorgeous gardens with more than 1 000 trees and shrubs; a dam and areas of grassland for nesting, resting, breeding and feeding birds.
There’s also a five-star self-catering family lodge that sleeps 10. As a “green” hotel that recycles all its wastewater and is dedicated to uplifting the community, it plays an active part in the Elephant Coast tourism industry. I arrive at the same time as the annual Zululand get-together of the young US Peace Corps volunteers, who come to South Africa for a couple of years, and the local teachers with whom they work. The joint, as they say, is jumping.
The hotel is all about location, location, location. Between Africa’s oldest proclaimed game reserve, the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park established in 1875 and world-renowned for its role in rhino conservation, and iSimangaliso Wetland Park, a World Heritage Site, there’s a wealth of things to do and see.
Go for a drive in the rhino conservation park or take a guided boat trip on Lake St Lucia to watch crocs and hippos, or, at sea, whales and dolphins. Take a trip to Dumazulu Traditional Village or spend a day tiger fishing, playing golf, enjoying a cheetah or elephant interaction, a visit to a reptile park or, in season, a turtle tour. The hotel can organise all your trips for you, with packages to suit all budgets, or you and your family can go it alone.
Turkington was hosted by
muluwa.co.za
graskopgorgeliftcompany.co.za
mistymountain.co.za
oysterboxhotel.com
anewhotels.com
