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Fashion Week: Empty seats and African stars

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The crowd at the underwhelming opening night Picture: Mpumelelo Buthelezi
The crowd at the underwhelming opening night Picture: Mpumelelo Buthelezi

The African Fashion International (AFI) Joburg Fashion Week clipped and staggered down the runway this week with all the usual ups and downs we have come to expect.

Staged in a large white marquee at Melrose Arch from Thursday to Sunday, patrons at the underwhelming opening night were greeted by rows of empty chairs – surprising for an event where the first night is usually packed.

As the shows progressed – with Norma Gigaba, wife of Home Affairs Minister Malusi Gigaba, and ministers Rob Davies and Lindiwe Sisulu in attendance – influencers, fashion critics and the media battled to obtain a seat at times. This after a number of tickets were issued twice, as AFI’s new ticket system, Sky Bookings, caused chaos. Soon enough, the annual elegant scrum for front-row seats resumed, while the late arrival of VIP guests caused some shows to start later than scheduled.

International Relations Minister Lindiwe Sisulu attended this week’s shows, casting a critical eye

On display was a cosmopolitan melting pot of designers from South Africa, Nigeria, Tanzania, Botswana, Japan, Cambodia and China. Thanks to AFI’s partnership with Tokyo Fashion Week, a local designer will have the opportunity to show his or her work in Japan.

On Friday night, the last show was cancelled as Nigerian fashion brand CLAN and designer Deola Sagoe experienced visa problems. Said AFI: “CLAN and Deola were looking forward to being a part of the amazing Afro-Asia themed fashion week. They send their sincere apologies to all their clients and supporters.”

On day one, couturier Orapeleng Modutle impressed with his Spring/Summer collection, attracting a standing ovation. “The preparation for this season’s fashion week has been daunting; I was anxious and there were a number of sleepless nights,” he told City Press. “But nothing beats the joy and sense of accomplishment the moment you see the garments you have laboured over for months come to life.”

The collection, he said, was rooted in the influences of music. “I meditate through the medium of music during the development of my collections while I sketch. The relationship between fashion and music is one of abundant and mutual creativity.”

Textile and knitwear star, Laduma Ngxokolo, who consistently comes up with an impressive collection via his MaXhosa by Laduma range, used beadwork as his inspiration to reinvent the brand’s famous patterns. “Decoration as a centrepiece makes the design appealing as an art form that can be worn and seen or that can live as a piece of art,” he said.

Fashion police

It’s all hits this week as African Fashion International’s Joburg Fashion Week went on display. Rhodé Marshall takes us through some of her favourite looks from the runway in Melrose Arch 

Xhosalicious: In 2010 Laduma Ngxokolo’s desire to explore knitwear design solutions that would be suitable for amakrwala (Xhosa initiates) led to the start of MaXhosa – one of the most famous South African fashion houses. With his new collection, Ngxokolo presented his original knitwear in ready-to-wear versions, mixing them with his prints on chiffon fabrics to make exquisite and original garments. Picture: Mpumelelo Buthelezi
Nomzamo on fleek: Known for deploying unique silhouettes and colourful African prints, Rich Factory enjoyed frequent cheers for its lively collection. For the dress worn by actress Nomzamo Mbatha, Rich Factory designer Rina Chunga created a fabric that celebrates colour as only an African woman can. Though a chunky gown, Mbatha’s fun personality gracefully moved across the runway, making both the gown and her appearance a highlight. Pictures: Mpumelelo Buthelezi
Drama Queen: For this showstopper, Orapeleng Modutle’s OM Style Avenue created a dramatic moment as the model glided across the runway followed by ballerinas en pointe to show off the gorgeously beaded wedding gown slightly reminiscent of rapper Cardi B’s gem-encrusted Moschino gown worn earlier this year at the Met Gala. The ornate gilded headpiece was a marvellous addition to the drama of the moment. Picture: Mpumelelo Buthelezi
Marry Me: Over-the-top bridal designer Neville Masondo’s La Art Neviole Emporium used a vast number of pearls, creating striking theatrical gowns. Creating multiple silhouettes, flamboyant structures and glamorous designs, Masondo stayed away from traditional bridal gowns and played with modern, yet sophisticated, styles. Picture: Mpumelelo Buthelezi



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